The art of dying

This time of year — as the leaves change and warm summer days conclude heading toward that creepy last day of October — we think about death. In New Orleans, death is present all year long.

It’s those cemeteries, little “cities of the dead,” that exists throughout town. The ghost and voodoo tours. The tourists — and a few locals — who love to dress goth thinking vampires lurk around every corner.

But still, October takes the cake, even for New Orleans.  

For instance, the Gallier Historic House Museum at 1132 Royal St. in the French Quarter will offer specialized tours that interpret post funeral habits of the 19th century beginning Thursday, Sept 29. Tours are offered weekdays (closed Wednesdays) at 10 and 11 a.m., noon, 1 and 2 p.m. and Saturdays (closed Sundays) at noon, 1, 2 and 3 p.m.

The house was owned by James Gallier Sr. and his second wife, both of whom drowned at sea aboard the S.S. Evening Star as they traveled home to New Orleans from New York through a late-season hurricane off the coast of Georgia. The household went into mourning that October in 1866 and the museum will commemorate their deaths in the upcoming days.

New Orleans historian Sally Asher helped construct a tour that includes information about the Evening Star, the shipwreck and the Galliers’ deaths, research that was part of her two recently published books, “Hope & New Orleans: A History of Crescent City Street Names” (2014) and “Stories from the St. Louis Cemeteries” (2015). 

 

During the Victorian era, almost every aspect of everyday life, from clothes to china, were changed to reflect the family’s grief. The front entry of the home was swathed in black crepe, as were mirrors and the deceased’s portrait (see photo at left). Clocks were stopped at the hour of death, and even children’s toys reflected the solemn mood. Displays of distinctive funeral attire and many Victorian mourning articles (see photo above right) will provide visitors to the Gallier House with an uncommon look into the past.

As a special event, Historian John Magill will lecture on the “Artistry of Death: The Cult of Mourning in the Nineteenth-Century South” at 6 p.m. Wednesday, Oct. 26. Using illustrations and artifacts, Magill will offer insight on the elaborate tombs, death notices, decorative arts, clothing and jewelry that protocol and fashion dictated in the era of the Galliers’ misfortune. The lecture is free and open to the public. For reservations and more information, email rsvp@hgghh.org. For admission prices, group tour appointments and to purchase tickets in advance, visit hgghh.org.

Still thinking about those Cities of the Dead? You’d be right to visit cemeteries in New Orleans for they are unique in many ways. These above-ground tombs were built to resist the city's high water table but for many, the tradition of elaborate grave sites remain. Plus, there’s an awesome organization, Save Our Cemeteries, dedicated to preserving these miniature cities and they offer daily tours.

In October, Save Our Cemeteries and Anne Rice's Vampire Lestat Fan Club (ARVLFC) team up to raise money for a restoration of the Karstendiek Family tomb in historic Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. The Karstendiek Family tomb is also known as the “Vampire Lestat Tomb” because Rice drew from the tomb’s unique attributes and its striking resemblance to the tomb featured in the movie adaptation of “Interview with the Vampire.” (You can view the tomb here.) According to the Save Our Cemeteries website, the Karstendiek Family tomb is one of only 16 cast-iron tombs in Orleans Parish.

It’s also in need of repairs, so both groups will offer a party to raise funds beginning at 5:30 p.m. Oct. 27. There will be a Second Line led by Skinz N Bonez into the cemetery, followed by a “twilight tour” of the cemetery where light refreshments and red wine will be served. Tickets are $50 per person (must be at least 21 years old to attend) and may be purchased here.

Photos of Gallier House submitted by Deveney Communication.

Cheré Dastugue Coen is a food and travel writer living in South Louisiana. She is also the author of several Louisiana romances under the pen name of Cherie Claire and the author of “Forest Hill, Louisiana: A Bloom Town History,” “Haunted Lafayette, Louisiana” and “Exploring Cajun Country: A Historic Guide to Acadiana” and co-author of “Magic’s in the Bag: Creating Spellbinding Gris Gris Bags and Sachets.” Write her at cherecoen@gmail.com.

Visit Arkansas for a ‘Billgrimage’

Clinton House Museum

If you watched the Democratic Convention this summer, you might remember former Pres. Bill Clinton talking about his early days in Arkansas and meeting and marrying Hillary in Fayetteville. In fact, the couple was married in the living room of that bungalow near the University of Arkansas, where both taught law. 
The former Clinton residence is now open as the Clinton House Museum and includes photos, campaign materials and other memorabilia from when the Clintons resided there. The home, which is listed on the National Historic Registry, is located at 930 W. Clinton Drive in Fayetteville.

But that’s only one of the many sites throughout Arkansas that honor the Clintons. Here are the others for what tourism folks call a “Billgrimage,” since most have to do with Bill Clinton, the 42nd U.S. president and former governor of Arkansas (except for the Bill and Hillary Clinton National Airport in Little Rock).

Hot Springs, Arkansas

The two-story white frame house at 117 S. Hervey in the small town of Hope in Southwest Arkansas was the birthplace of William Jefferson Clinton, now a National Historic Site. The house belonged to Clinton's grandparents and is where he lived the first four years of his life. Near the home is the Hope Visitor Center and Museum, located in the former Union Pacific Railroad Depot at South Main and Division streets. Exhibits and videos on the history of the town and Clinton's connection to Hope can be seen here. A hand-carved wooden sign honoring Clinton is located in a park adjacent to the visitor center.

Clinton's childhood home on Park Avenue in Hot Springs is close to schools he attended and his favorite hangouts. A hand-carved sign honoring him is located in the Hill Wheatley Plaza on Central Avenue downtown. Be sure to stop by McClard's Bar-B-Q Restaurant, a favorite of Bill’s and a host of others; the barbecue is to die for!

            After Bill and Hillary were married in Fayetteville, Bill became governor and the couple lived in various residences in Little Rock, including the Arkansas Governor's Mansion at 18th and Center streets. A bronze bust of Bill Clinton can be seen on the grounds of the mansion. Also in Little Rock, Bill Clinton announced his bid for the presidency in 1991 at the Old State House Museum at 300 W. Markham St., which once served as the first state capitol and is now a museum of Arkansas history.

Oval Office replica at William J. Clinton Presidential Library

             The William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum, located at 1200 E. President Clinton Ave. in Little Rock, houses the largest collection of presidential papers and artifacts in the U.S. Visitors may learn of Bill Clinton and his years in the White House, plus his family life and post-presidential work. There is a replica of the Oval Office and Cabinet Room (left) that’s a favorite among visitors (check out the goofy photo below of me enjoying the presidential moment).

The Clinton Presidential Park Bridge, which is part of the Arkansas River Trail, is a ramped pedestrian pathway located next to the presidential center. Also adjacent to the center is the Presidential Park Wetlands that contains 13 acres of wetlands along the Arkansas River that’s perfect for a stroll after a visit to the presidential library. Next door is the historic Choctaw Station, which was built in 1899 and is now the home of the University of Arkansas Clinton School of Public Service.

            For more information about Clinton sites in Arkansas, visit www.Arkansas.com/things-to-do/arts/clinton-library.

Cheré Dastugue Coen is a food and travel writer living in South Louisiana. She is also the author of several Louisiana romances under the pen name of Cherie Claire and the author of “Forest Hill, Louisiana: A Bloom Town History,” “Haunted Lafayette, Louisiana” and “Exploring Cajun Country: A Historic Guide to Acadiana” and co-author of “Magic’s in the Bag: Creating Spellbinding Gris Gris Bags and Sachets.” Write her at cherecoen@gmail.com.

Donut worry, visit Alpharetta

Charles Goodwyn

            Donuts are not the only reason to visit Alpharetta, Georgia. But then again, why not?

            There are two outstanding donuteries (yes, we made that up) in the hip north Georgia town, spots offer a delectable sugar rush like no other.

Professional Chef Charles Goodwyn opened Donut Theory to serve up the sweet concoctions with a gourmet touch. All the glazes, ganaches and jams are made from scratch and in small batches. He calls it redoing the classics and creating new ones.

After being professional trained as a chef Goodwyn thought to open a breakfast place but looked to try something new and innovative. His donuts run the gamut, from traditional to jelly infused with fresh jams, fruits and creams to the fancy stuff, items such as fritters and daily specials like chocolate crème brule. On the day we visited, we sampled what Goodwyn was creating before our eyes — a Nutella-infused donut with chocolate glaze. Yum!

On the other side of town is Da Vinci Donuts, named one of the 33 Best Donut Shops in the America by Thrillist.com this year. Diners can create their own, take a tour to see how donuts are made or sample the popular maple bacon and salted caramel donuts, among so many others. They create 800 to 1200 donuts a day, but that number rises to close to 8,000 between both their stores on National Donut Day.

It’s a fun store, with a large blackboard where diners may create artwork. At the top is an announcement that the “World’s Tallest Man” visited the store and the top of his head reached the top of the sign.

We got a four pack on the way to the airport and I’m thinking there’s no way I’m going to each four donuts, will just take a bite. Those donuts never made it to the gate.
            For more information on Alpharetta, visit www.awesomealpharetta.com.

Cheré Dastugue Coen is a food and travel writer living in South Louisiana. She is also the author of several Louisiana romances under the pen name of Cherie Claire and the author of “Forest Hill, Louisiana: A Bloom Town History,” “Haunted Lafayette, Louisiana” and “Exploring Cajun Country: A Historic Guide to Acadiana” and co-author of “Magic’s in the Bag: Creating Spellbinding Gris Gris Bags and Sachets.” Write her at cherecoen@gmail.com.

Yes, things are bigger in Texas. Take Waco, for instance, with its mammoths, college, Lone Ranger

Kristen Petree demonstrates the girth of the Columbia Mammoth.

     They say everything is bigger in Texas. How true is that? On a recent trip to several cities in Texas, we found out that their bragging may be right on. 

     For instance, just in Waco...
     Baylor University in Waco is the largest Baptist college in the world. We were told that one of its buildings, the Baylor Sciences Building, is the largest collegiate building as well. The building houses multiple research and service facilities, six academic departments — such as physics and chemistry — and more than a dozen interdisciplinary centers, according to the college website. There's more than 150 labs and almost 40 class and conference rooms inside those walls.
     Just outside the city limits is the Waco Mammoth National Monument where evidence of Columbian Mammoths once lived. You can view these fossils that lived during the Pleistocene Epoch, about 2.5 million years to 10,000 years ago, along with other giant animals. The Columbian Mammoth may not be the biggest animal that once roamed the earth but it's pretty darn big, clocking in at 14 feet high, about four feet higher than a wooly mammoth. The park, by the way, is the latest to join the National Park Service and the 14th unit in Texas.
     Waco has another largest, the biggest Lone Ranger memorabilia collection in the United States at the Texas Ranger Hall of Fame and Museum.
     And that's just Waco. We'll post more about Texas in future blogs.

Weird Southern Beer Names

Like a little weirdness with your brews? Here are a few Southern beers you should try.

Fairhope Brewing Company, Fairhope, Alabama

Because it’s Alabama, there’s a S’Wheat Home, and because it’s Fairhope close to Gulf beaches, there’s Beach Day IPA. Judge Roy Bean coffee stout is our favorite, a beer brewed with coffee from the Fairhope Roasting Company (which serves up delicious coffee at The Warehouse, a hip new eatery.) The name is a nod to a former Alabama Eastern Shore landmark.

Bayou Teche Brewing of Arnaudville, Louisiana

This craft brewery located outside Lafayette, Louisiana, embraces its Cajun and Creole heritage with beers named Cocodrie (French for Alligator) Passionné for the passion fruit that grows in South Louisiana and Saison D'Ecrevisses, a beer to complement crawfish season. Visit on weekends and there’s everything from live Cajun music to yoga at the brewery.

Mississippi

Southern Prohibition Brewing in Hattiesburg takes the prize for the best names in Mississippi beers. Look for Jack the Sipper, Mississippi Fire Ant and Sinister Minister. We actually sampled the Freemason Golden Ale of Chandeleur Island Brewing Company of Gulfport, and even though the name’s not that romantic, it went oh so well with the fish tacos at The Blind Tiger in Bay St. Louis (pictured at right).

Jekyll Brewing in Alpharetta, Georgia

It’s a Deep South brewery, which is why you’ll see names such as Hop Dang Dippity, Redneck Christmas Stout Ale and Fixin’ To India pale ale. One of our favorites has a story to tell. Cooter Brown, naturally a brown ale, is named after a Civil War-era man who stayed drunk during the length of the war so he wouldn’t have to fight. Man after our own heart.

Audacity Brew House of Denton, Texas

Be careful who you mess with in Texas for its an open carry gun state. Maybe that’s why Audacity named one of its beers Bulletproof. The Texas Pale Ale is brewed with Texas craft malts and Texas-grown grapefruit. Other beers include the Repercussion German amber ale and the Black Widow Imperial Chocolate Stout. Again, I would tread lightly with these guys.

Great Raft Brewing, Shreveport, Louisiana

Like a Belgian dark ale? How about the Awkward Uncle from Great Raft Brewing? This malty ale is “Big and boozy, just like the best and worst family gatherings,” is how the owners describe it. Other funny names include Southern Drawl, All My Tomorrows and Mixed Feelings. Our favorite is the Reasonably Corrupt black German lager that goes down smooth. And Great Raft has a fabulous tasting room (at right).

Creature Comforts of Athens, Georgia

Bibo pilsner, Tropicalia American IPA, Koko Buni and Cosmik Debris are some of the beers you’ll find at Creature Comforts, a spacious Athens hangout with the brewery in full view. Some seasonal brews to enjoy, according to their website, are variations on Athena Paradiso, including tart cherry, guava and passion fruit and cherry, raspberry and cranberry.

Cheré Dastugue Coen is an international food and travel writer living in South Louisiana. She is also the author of several Louisiana romances under the pen name of Cherie Claire and the author of “Forest Hill, Louisiana: A Bloom Town History,” “Haunted Lafayette, Louisiana” and “Exploring Cajun Country: A Historic Guide to Acadiana” and co-author of “Magic’s in the Bag: Creating Spellbinding Gris Gris Bags and Sachets.” Write her at cherecoen@gmail.com.